Hair Color Codes Demystified for Professionals

Have you ever found yourself staring blankly at an array of hair color swatches, confused by the seemingly cryptic numbers and symbols? Those mysterious color codes actually represent a sophisticated color system. Understanding this system will help you choose your ideal shade with precision and communicate more effectively with your stylist. This guide will break down the structure of professional hair color numbering systems, empowering you to confidently select your perfect shade.

Professional hair color numbers typically consist of digits separated by a decimal point. The number before the decimal indicates the color depth (how light or dark the shade is), while the number after represents the tone (the actual color hue). For example, in the Neäl & Wølf color system, depth ranges from 1 (black) to 10 (lightest blonde), while tones use different numbers to represent various hues — .0 for natural, .1 for ash (green-based), .2 for violet, and so on.

Depth is the fundamental dimension of any hair color. Here's what the numbers mean in the Neäl & Wølf system:

• 1: Black - The deepest shade, creating dramatic, intense looks.
• 2: Darkest brown - Slightly lighter than black, offering a softer alternative.
• 3: Dark brown - A rich, warm brown that works for most complexions.
• 4: Medium brown - A versatile neutral brown that's universally flattering.
• 5: Light brown - A brighter, more youthful take on brown.
• 6: Dark blonde - The bridge between brown and blonde with golden warmth.
• 7: Medium blonde - A classic, sunny blonde that brightens the complexion.
• 8: Light blonde - A popular, eye-catching shade with high luminosity.
• 9: Very light blonde - Nearly platinum, requiring expert lightening.
• 10: Lightest blonde - The palest blonde for bold, statement looks.

When selecting depth, consider your natural skin tone, hair condition, and desired aesthetic. Generally, deeper complexions suit darker shades, while fair skin can carry lighter colors. Hair porosity also affects color absorption—damaged hair tends to grab pigment more intensely.

The tone determines the actual color cast of your hair. Different tones create distinct moods and styles:

• .0: Natural - No added tone, pure color with natural reflect.
• .1: Ash - Green-based cool tone that neutralizes redness.
• .2: Violet - Cool purple tones that add shine and depth.
• .3: Gold - Warm yellow tones that brighten the face.
• .4: Copper - Orange-red warmth for dimensional color.
• .5: Mahogany - Red-brown tones for sophisticated richness.
• .6: Red - Vibrant, high-impact crimson hues.
• .7: Warm brown - Golden brown tones that flatter warmer skin.
• .8: Blue - Cool tones that cancel unwanted brassiness.
• .9: Beige - Neutral balance of gold and violet for natural-looking blondes.

Tone selection should complement your skin's undertones and eye color. Golden complexions typically suit warm red or gold tones, while pinkish skin looks best with ash or violet tones. Your natural eye color also influences shade selection—darker eyes can carry deeper colors while light eyes pop with brighter hues.

Some color numbers feature double digits after the decimal (like 6.77), indicating a primary tone (70% influence) with a secondary tone (30%). This creates more nuanced, complex color with enhanced dimension.

Numbers like 77.66 represent amplified tones—in this case, an intense golden blonde with double red tones. These special codes create vivid, fashion-forward colors with maximum impact.

Understanding color numbering helps grasp professional color correction techniques. For example, adding .2 (violet) or .8 (blue) tones can neutralize unwanted yellow in blonde hair, while .1 (green) counteracts excessive redness.

While this knowledge empowers better color choices, professional application requires expertise in hair chemistry, underlying pigment, and formulation. A skilled colorist can assess your unique features and hair condition to create customized, flattering results while maintaining hair health.

Hair color numbering systems transform the complex science of color into an accessible language. With this understanding, you can approach your next color service with confidence, ready to collaborate with your stylist in creating your perfect shade.